The Land of Pho

It was the first time the three of us were going out of India together, and that too with the entire gang from Ritika’s side! We flew from Kolkata to Hanoi and spent a day there. Hanoi was a colourful city with the familiar buzz of big cities. On the very first evening, we went for the traditional Vietnamese food- pho ga (the chicken soupy noodles) and Banh xeo (a Vietnamese crepe).

Pic 1: On our way to Hanoi

Pic 2: First dinner in Hanoi- Sipping a beer while Ritika keeps our toddler engaged!

Pic 3: Where taste meets simplicty: Pho ga (left) and Banh xeo (right)

The Banh xeo was a learning experience though- we had to combine the leaves with the crepe and dip it in the sauce before eating. It’s always interesting when you are exposed to different cuisines; you not only taste something new, but you also have to learn how to eat it. Just like ilish mach (the Hilsa fish found in Bengal). Just because someone from Kerala or Goa eats fish, they can’t magically come to Bengal and start eating ilish. There is a certain technique to debone and eat it, which most Bengalis have mastered over the years. Not something easy to master quickly.

Anyways, back to our trip. After dinner, we rode their version of a cycle-rikshaw around Hoan Kiem Lake. In this version, the passenger’s back faces the driver, giving an uninterrupted view as we travel.

Pic 4: Cycle-rikshaw ride in Hanoi

Pic 5: Arhat enticed by the fire on Hanoi streets

The next morning we went to the ‘Temple of Literature’, which is dedicated to Confucius. Built around 1070AD, it also hosted Vietnam’s first university for over 700 years.

Pic 6: At the ‘Temple of Literature’, Hanoi

And before meeting up with the rest of the family who were travelling from Delhi, we sat at a cafe next to the gorgeous St. Joseph’s Cathedral, trying the egg coffee for the first and last time! Not suitable for my taste buds.

Pic 7: St. Joseph’s Cathedral (left), the famous Vietnamese egg coffee (right)

We finally met as a group and travelled to Ninh Binh. It was a quaint little town where rice fields, wetlands, rivers and limestone towers all merge to form a beautiful landscape. We visited the Mua Caves and the Bich Dong Pagoda, a Buddhist complex built inside a limestone mountain. Here Tintin climbed the stairs with utmost enthusiasm, and even we struggled to catch our breath.

Pic 8: Entrance of the Bich Dong Pagoda

Pic 9: Trekking the pagoda (left), after the descent (right)

Pic 10: Entrance to the Mua caves, Ninh Binh

Our last stop, also where we spent most of our time, was Lan Ha Bay, which was next to the Cat Ba islands. We gave Halong Bay a pass because we wanted a place with fewer crowds, and Lan Ha Bay was a perfect match. The resort was right next to a secluded beach and overlooked the emerald blue waters and karsts emerging from the water in the distance.

Pic 10: Arhat with his cousin, Ved, at the Flaming Cat Ba resort, Cat Ba Island

Pic 11: View from the resort, Cat Ba Island

We went on a cruise, and it was probably one of the most beautiful scenes I witnessed on the water. Karst limestone towers emerged from the water. They have stood there for hundreds of thousands of years, though in a different form. These structures are skeletons of an ancient seabed. The water was uncannily quiet as the limestone towers absorbed any waves.

Pic 12: View from the cruise deck- the jagged limestone karst towers emerging from the blue waters

Pic 13: The rare times he poses for the camera!

Pic 14: Cruise control- Arhat enjoying the captain’s view

There is a Vietnamese folklore that says dragons descended from the heavens to protect the country and spat out jewels, which are these islands!

We also did our first kayaking in these waters, where Ritika and I questioned the strength of our relationship based on how uncoordinated we were (yes, we were in a fighting phase for a few days!). On the last day, we discovered a wonderful trek next to our resort that led to some beautiful views of the ocean.

Pic 15: Climbing the stairs near the beach (left), the view (right)

Pic 16: Our coordination in the kayak was inversely proportional to our real-life coordination!

Pic 17: View from the top- secluded beach between two resorts

The pristine waters of the bay, the thriving greenery of the land and the delicious pho-  pretty much sum up our Vietnam trip!

Pic 18: Crossing bridges literally (connecting the buildings of our resort)

Singapore 2026

I got a chance to travel to Singapore in May 2026, thanks to an invitation by a friend to attend Teach for All’s Better Future Forum conference. As it happens, growing up in a family of limited means, a chance to travel is much more than attending a conference- it’s about discovering a new place, culture, people and the way of life.

One of the first things that struck me as soon as I landed in Changi airport was the smoothest possible immigration I have ever faced. I just walked out of the airport by scanning my passport and a camera scanning my face. There were a couple of immigration officers standing to aid travelers who might be struggling with this process. Amazing efficiency!

Pic 1: Singapore Changi airport

As I landed quite early, I dropped my bag in the hotel and headed out for breakfast. I was staying in the Katong area and found a 100-year-old cafe- Chin Mee Chin confectionery where I had the signature kaya toast and kopi (coffee) with soft-boiled eggs that I drizzled with soya sauce and white pepper. Kaya is a coconut jam that they smear on the bread and that does all the magic! Also I increasingly see how soya-sauce dominates the South Asian cuisine.

Pic 2: Traditional Singapore breakfast – kaya toast, soft-boiled eggs, and kopi

Post breakfast, I checked in to the hotel and took a small nap, jet-lagged from the late night flight. Once I woke up, I headed out straight for lunch. And this time it was Laksa– a rich soupy noodles with a coconut broth and filled with seafood. I have a love affair with soupy noodles- be it the Tibetan ‘thupka’, Vietnamese ‘pho’ or the new entrant to my tastebuds- Laksa! I paired that with another unique dish, Otah – ground fish mixed with spices, then steamed or grilled. Easily one of my favourite discoveries thanks to the amazing flavour.

Pic 3: 328 Katong Laksa, the restaurant (left), and laksa with otah (right)

The area itself (Katong) was full of heritage buildings and colourful houses.

Pic 4: Streets of Katong

As my conference was starting from the next day, I wanted to make the most of it in Day 1 itself. So I headed out to the National Gallery Singapore in the hot and humid weather. As I was roaming around, I came across an interesting artwork on the walls of a floor :

Pic 5: Guess what is this?

If you are trying to figure out what this deep abstract object is- let me tell you this is brinjal! Imagine a wall full of brinjal in various stages of flaccidity. Modern art. What a bharta they make at times!

I found a new painting style that I had not seen before though- ink paintings. Look at these two paintings for sometime- what’s standing out?

Pic 6- Chinese ink paintings

After a brief tryst with the museum, I headed out to Merlion park. Merlion is the official mascot of Singapore- a mythical creature with a head of a lion and body of a fish, representing the two names- Singapura, which means lion city and Temasek- its earlier name of the fishing village that Singapore was.

Pic 7- Merlion park

The skyline from this park truly reflects Singapore’s prosperity, the towering banks and corporate skyscrapers rise over the bay. Dominating the skyline, of course, is the iconic Marina Bay Sands, the city’s famed casino resort.

Pic 8- Marina Bay Sands, Singapore

My Day 2 in Singapore started with a school visit to a public school- Boon Lay Garden primary school. Singapore’s public schools are one of the best in the world. It was not only extremely well resourced, but the school leader and the teachers whom we met were highly motivated and engaged. I later came to know that this school is one of the average schools in Singapore. This is one of those schools I would not hesitate to send my own child- colourful and full of warmth. It helps that children of Singapore’s government officials attend public schools- incentives get aligned to ensure the best possible outcomes for these schools!

Pic 9- Boon Lay Garden primary school

The rest of my days were mostly spent on the conference and attending the ‘The greatest show on earth’- a musical by Teach for India kids at Gardens by the Bay. The musical portrayed how our school education system is chaining student freedom and creativity and ended with a promise of reimagining the education system.

Pic 10- The Greatest Show On Earth

‘Gardens by the Bay’ itself was a fascinating concept, with trees and plants sourced from across the world and curated into different sections. Another highlight is the Supertree Grove, where giant metallic tree-like structures covered with creepers and climbers come alive with lights in the evening.

Pic 11- Gardens by the Bay; Supertree Grove (right)

On my final day, I went to the ‘Lau Pa Sat’- an iconic hawker center serving a variety of food right at the heart of Singapore. Singapore has many hawker centers around the country and each of these places has an assortment of small shops selling different cuisines. I relished the Hainanese chicken rice- a dish made with poached chicken dipped in soya sauce and rice made in chicken broth. And I had Char siew noodles- noodles served with Cantonese barbecued pork, and here the noodles being dipped in soya sauce. You just cannot escape soya sauce in this region and nor did I want to!

Pic 12- Lau Pa Sat -an iconic hawker center nestled amidst the towering skyscrapers of modern Singapore


Pic 13- Lau Pa Sat (inside view)

Pic 14- Notice the ever present soya sauce? Hainanese chicken rice (left), Char Siew noodles (right)

I wrapped up my last day in Singapore with a quick visit to Chinatown. It was sweltering hot, so it was a quick walk to Chinatown and took some pastries from the famous Tong Heng Traditional Cantonese pastries. Truth be told, it was underwhelming. Sweets seldom match the diversity and taste that India offers. At least to my palate and limited exposure!

Before taking my flight back to Kolkata, I visited Jewel Changi Airport, home to the 131-foot Rain Vortex- the world’s largest indoor waterfall. For me, it somehow summarized Singapore itself: the audacity and ambition to transform a tiny fishing port into one of the great economic powerhouses of the modern world.

Pic 15- Jewel Changi